Tanuki AMHT Amagumo High Tapered Jeans

The Amagumo (雨雲) denim sits between the Zetto (14oz) and the Earth (18oz) in terms of texture and clocks in at 15.5oz. Tanuki engineered this fabric to fade quickly and wanted to incorporate a natural dyeing technique that is very uncommon and would yield unique fades: The weft features a deep grey colour, dyed with black beans (kuromame). It will fade to a steely grey over time and give great contrasts with the indigo blue. The fabric has a loth of depth and intensity to it, therefore Tanuki named it amagumo (雨雲) which means rain clouds.

Tanuki has experimented quite extensively with this dyeing technique. Natural dye works great with quality plant fibres so Tanuki opted for a high quality cotton blend that holds the dye better which results in an amazing frey weft. The stitching for this one is quite special: A variety of contrasting blue and yellow threads which really stand out.

The jeans are made with all the superior-quality Tanuki details such as copper hardware, Tanuki logo embroidered back pocket detail and the iconic Tanuki custom vegetable-tanned deerskin leather patch.

The cut is a modern high-tapered fit. The taper is pretty aggressive so that it gives a slim-fitting silhouette while allowing for a lot of space at the thighs with a high rise.

Near the back pocket, there is the embroidered Tanuki 二 (Ni) logo, two parallel lines in Japanese Kanji representing the number 2. The lower line represents the past, tradition, the standard, peace. The upper line represents the future, change, strength. The red and blue colours of their logo refer to Japan’s flag, honouring their roots as denim artisans.

The Tanuki brand was established in 2016 in Okayama Prefecture. It comprises a small group of great artisans who are passionate about denim and boast more than 30 years’ experience in other brands in the industry. If there is something that characterizes Tanuki garments in addition to its modern cuts, it is the quality and variety of its fabrics, with prime importance given to the best cottons, natural indigo and the application of different types of tension on the shuttle looms when producing the fabrics.

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