Samurai Jeans S140SXJ-GRK “Shinsengumi Goryokaku” 18oz Relax Tapered Jeans

[Limited Edition]

This limited edition from Samurai is crafted using the exclusive 18oz “Makoto Denim” and all the iconography of the Japanese Shinsengumi squad (新選組) and the battle of Goryokaku (五稜郭の戦い).

Shinsengumi was a military police force in Japan in the Edo era that was gathered to defend Kyoto against political opponents. They were drawn from the sword schools and were trained in martial arts. They became famous for the Ikedaya incident where thirty Shinsengumi suppressed a cell of twenty Chōshū revolutionaries, possibly preventing the burning of Kyoto. The incident made Shinsengumi more famous and led to soldiers enlisting in the squad. The battle of Goryokakuwas fought in Japan from December 4, 1868, to June 27, 1869, between the remnants of the Tokugawa shogunate army with the Shinsengumi squad consolidated into the armed forces of the rebel Ezo Republic, and the armies of the newly formed Imperial government (composed mainly of forces of the Chōshū and the Satsuma domains). It was the last stage of the Boshin War and occurred around Hakodate in the northern Japanese island of Hokkaidō. As a result, The battle marked the end of the old feudal regime in Japan and the end of armed resistance to the Meiji Restoration.

This is the special model in the motif of Goryokaku and Hijikata Toshizo, who was known as deputy head of Shinsengumi and died in this war. The jeans are full of details inspired by this story:

• Tricolour selvedge ID (red, white and light blue), which references the Shinsengumi uniform colour.
• Gold rising-sun button that means the draw of a new era.
• Sakura buttons: The Gyoryokaku battle was fought in a place that now boasts about 1,600 cherry blossom trees (Sakura) across the 25.2 hectares of land it occupies.
• Taiko button: Toshizo Hizikata’sHizikata’s family emblem is the TAIKO design. It is unknown where Hijikata was buried, but it is believed that his body was buried under the Sakura tree either at Goryōkaku, Hekketsuhi temple or Ganjojitemple.
• Syogyomujo lining: Woven text in the pockets jacquard lining that translates to ”Everything including myself is constantly changing.”

But despite all this amount of detail, what is most impressive at first glance is the Makoto (誠) fabric which means “Samurais do not change their minds.”. It uses 100% premium cotton and white vertical slub yarns. It is a unique natural indigo fabric with a vast amount of slub and a beautiful hue of indigo shadows. It’s one of the slubbiest and most beautiful textiles we have ever seen (take a look at our close-up pictures of the fabric). It is highly irregular denim, both in terms of texture and colour. Thinner and thicker cotton threads run through each other, creating one of the most unique textures you will ever feel. The fat white vertical slub yarns look like heavy rain falling through a vibrant blue effect created by varying thickness of natural indigo warp yarns.

The new Samurai relaxed tapered fit simple taper from the knee down with a close leg opening, still offering plenty of room in the thigh and top block with a mid-high rise.

*Keep in mind that these jeans run small. Please, do not choose your size based on a brand you have previously worn. It is always better to check our size chart.

Samurai jeans have become a legend in the Japanese denim scene. Created in Osaka by Toru Nogami in 1997, Samurai represents the perfection of Japanese tradition, with its iconography of Sengoku-era Samurais and the search for the best and nothing but the best through materials, artisan garment-making techniques and unique detailing.

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